Summer Safety--Heat Stroke and Dehydration in Dogs

 Heat Exhaustion/Heat Stroke

Heat exhaustion or heat stroke is a potentially life-threatening condition and a major emergency for our dogs and requires immediate treatment. A dog’s normal temperature ranges 100 to 102.5 degrees –and sudden exposure to increased heat will result in a quick rise in body temperature. Our dogs cannot tolerate hot/high environmental temperatures because they do not sweat (except to a minor degree through their foot pads). Dogs depend upon panting to exchange warm air for cool air. But when air temperature is close to body temperature, cooling by panting is not an efficient process.

Common causes of Heat Exhaustion or Heat Stroke in Dogs

As pet owners need to be aware of common situations that can set the stage for heat stroke in dogs which may include:

 Being left in a car in hot weather

 Exercising strenuously in hot, humid weather

 Being a brachycephalic breed, (“short shoved up noses”) especially a Mastiff, BullMastiff,
Bulldog,  Pug, or Pekingese. 

 Suffering from a heart or lung disease that interferes with efficient breathing

 Being muzzled while put under a hair dryer

 Suffering from a high fever or seizures.

 Being confined on concrete or asphalt surfaces

 Being confined without shade and fresh water in hot weather

 Having a history of heat stroke

Recognizing the Sign of Heat Exhaustion in your Dog-

Heat stroke symptoms begin with restlessness, increased salivation (drooling)’, heavy panting and increased deep breathing. The dog’s saliva becomes thick and tenacious, and the dog often vomits. or has diarrhea.   The symptoms will progress as the dog’s body temperature increasesà The rectal temperature rises to 104° to 110°F (40° to 43.3°C); and the signs became more seriousàweakness, inattention, staggering, gasping, the tongue and mucous membranes may initially appear bright brick red, then purple or blue (cyanosis).. As shock sets in, the lips and mucous membranes turn gray. Collapse, seizures, coma, and death rapidly ensue.

Emergency Treatment-

Emergency measures to cool the dog must begin at once. Move the dog out of the source of heat, preferably into an air-conditioned building. Take his rectal temperature every 10 minutes. Mild cases may be resolved by moving the dog into a cool environment.  If using a fan to help cool the dog, place it at a comfortable distance.  Dogs should never be positioned close to or directly in front of air conditioners running on high--. This may inversely cause them to cool too quickly.

Minutes make the difference and owners must cool dogs off prior to transporting them to a veterinarian. If the rectal temperature is above 104°F, begin rapid cooling by spraying the dog with a garden hose or immersing him in a tub of cool water (not ice water) for up to two minutes. . Alternatively, place the wet dog in front of an electric fan. . Monitor his rectal temperature and continue the cooling process until the rectal temperature falls below 103°F (39°C). At this point, stop the cooling process and dry the dog. Further cooling may induce hypothermia and shock.

NEVER immerse the dog in ice cold water or iceàif you cool the hypothermic dog too quickly the blood vessels will constrict impeding the dog’s ability to dissipate heat and cool off. Towels can be soaked in cool water and used to cover your dogàice packs, cooling pads can also be used and  placed under and behind the dog’s neck,  inside armpits, groin and flank areas.

Following an episode of heat stroke, take your dog immediately to a veterinarian. Even dogs that appear more comfortable should be taken to the veterinarian as soon as possible. Although the initial emergency may be passed, heat exhaustion can have lingering and detrimental long-term effects that only a veterinarian can test, monitor and treat 

One of the more common serious complications of heat stroke can be associated with laryngeal edema. This seriously worsens the breathing problem and may require an emergency tracheostomy. An injection of cortisone before the onset of respiratory distress may prevent this problem.  Other consequences of hyperthermia include kidney failure, spontaneous bleeding, irregular heartbeat, and seizures. These complications can occur hours or days later.

Dehydration

Dehydration occurs when a dog loses body fluids faster than he can replace them. Dehydration usually involves the loss of both water and electrolytes. In dogs, the most common causes of dehydration are severe vomiting and diarrhea. Dehydration can also be caused by inadequate fluid intake, often associated with fever and severe illness. A rapid loss of fluids also occurs with heat stroke.

Recognizing the Signs and Symptoms of Dehydration-

A prominent sign of dehydration is loss of skin elasticity. When the skin along the back is pulled up, it should spring back into place. In a dehydrated animal, the skin stays up in a ridge.

Another sign of dehydration is dryness of the mouth. The gums, which should be wet and glistening, become dry and tacky. The saliva is thick and tenacious. In an advanced case, the eyes are sunken and the dog exhibits signs of shock, including collapse.

Treatment-

 A dog who is visibly dehydrated should receive immediate veterinary attention, including intravenous fluids, to replace fluids and prevent further loss. Depending on the severity of the dog’s symptoms, the veterinarian may administer IV fluids and/or give oxygen supplementation.

For mild dehydration, if the dog is not vomiting you can give him an electrolyte solution by bottle or syringe into the cheek pouch. Balanced electrolyte solutions for treating dehydration in children, such as Ringer’s lactate with 5 percent dextrose in water or Pedialyte solution, are available at drugstores and are also suitable for dogs. Gatorade is another short-term substitute to help replace fluids. Administer the solution at a rate of 2 to 4 ml per pound (1 to 2 ml per kilo) of body weight per hour, depending on the severity of the dehydration (or as directed by your veterinarian). 

Every serious dog show exhibitor needs to have an emergency care kit which includes the supplies to treat heat exhaustion.  By administering oral fluids and a proper cool down, you could save your dog’s life.  Sadly, I have known of owners/handlers who lost dogs to heat exhaustion/heat stroke because they simply did not recognize the symptoms or knew how to treat it.

Preventing Heat Stroke/Heat Exhaustion/Dehydration-

In many cases, heat exhaustion is preventable.  Here are a few common sense approaches to help prevent a heat emergency with your dog..

.

• Never leave your dog untended in your car, even if the temperature is mild. In a locked car, the temperature can climb rapidly to a dangerous level. A cracked window will not prevent your dog from overheating and suffering heat stroke. Never assume your pet will be okay in the car for “just a minute” while you run into the store or attend another errand. An unexpected delay could endanger your dog’s life!

• Animals should have access to shade and fresh water while outdoors. If the temperature is very warm, outdoor access should be limited to short periods of time and the dog should be housed indoors.  As little as 20-30 minutes may be all it will take for your dog to die from heat stroke.  We like to use kiddie pools and the water sprinklers to help keep our guys cool.   All of our outside runs are covered with shades and have large fans to help keep the area cool.  A brief wetdown early each morning, mid-day, early afternoon helps to keep these areas 15-20 degrees cooler than the outside. We  also have large roomy crates set up inside an air conditioned room where they are kept if the outside temperature rise above 95 degrees. Exercise and play time can be done in early AM or evening times after the temperature has cooled. We also changed and provide cool water at least 2-3  times per day during hot weather.

• If your dog is working in warm weather, be prepared to offer him water at regular intervals and understand that he may drink more water than usual under these circumstances. 

 NEVER leave your dog without shade and water during hot weather.

• Use caution with dogs that are obese, have respiratory difficulties, are geriatric or are otherwise unhealthy. These dogs may be more prone to heat exhaustion than other dogs. Also certain lines of dogs (especial Mastiffs) are know to be more susceptible to heat stroke--so take extra care if your dog has a near relative that suffered or died from heat stroke.

• Be aware, short-nosed (brachycephalic) breeds of dogs are at higher risk of heat exhaustion than other breeds.

By being aware of the circumstances in which heat exhaustion can occur, many if not most cases can be prevented.

Have fun in the outdoors with your pet, but use common sense and be observant.  Mastiffs love to be with their people. Outside summer activities and travel are great opportunities to spend some quality time with your pet.  Use care and let the good times roll!!

Any comments or questions may be directed to me at kiokeemastiffs@embarqmail.com.

Catie C. Arney

Kiokee Mastiffs

Hickory, North Carolina

Flea & Tick Control

      As a breeder and pet owner, I do have concerns with excessive chemical use in our dogs.  However, sometime simply bathing and/or spraying may not be sufficient and a monthly treatment for flea and tick control is required.  Mastiffs and other Giant breeds dogs are large by weight but may not require a "dosage by the pound approach" for this control.  Older dogs and younger puppies may also have increase sensitivity--so discuss this with your vet before using prescription products.

I also have an earlier blog entry--"Safe Organic Pesticides"--  that may provide some valuable information for alternative approaches to control fleas, Ticks, and other pests  inside and outside your home.    It can be found at thttp://kiokeemastiffscom.blogspot.com/2011/06/safe-organic-pesticides.html.

In addition, here are a few homemade "recipes" that pet owners may find helpful-safe non-toxic approaches to controlling pests on your pets and in your home.

Insect Repellent

 Insect repellent spray

Combine in a 16 oz bottle:
15 drops lavender oil
3-4 Tbsp of vanilla extract
1/4 Cup lemon juice. 
Fill bottle with water. 
Shake.

You can also use any 1 or more of the following to substitute for lavender oil in the above recipe.

                 20-30 drops of Clove Bud Oil

                5-10 drops of Rosemary Oil

                5-10 drops of Lemon Grass Oil

               

  For babies and young toddlers- just  clove Bud Oil—will not hurt eyes!!

HOMEMADE MOSQUITO TRAP:
Items needed:
1 cup of water
1/4 cup of brown sugar
1 gram of yeast
1 2-liter bottle

HOW:
1. Cut the plastic bottle in half.
2. Mix brown sugar with hot water. Let cool. When cold, pour in the bottom half of the bottle.
3. Add the yeast. No need to mix. It creates carbon dioxide, which attracts mosquitoes.
4. Place the funnel part, upside down, into the other half of the bottle, taping them together if desired.
5. Wrap the bottle with something black, leaving the top uncovered, and place it outside in an area away from your normal gathering area. (Mosquitoes are also drawn to the color black.)

Change the solution every 2 weeks for continuous control.

Wasps , Bees & Hornet Trap

Take a gallon milk jug and cut an upside down V shape in the side 2/3 way up on the jug. Press the tab in. Pour fruit juice ( I use apple) 1 inch deep into the jug. Put the cap back on the jug and hang. Insects enter through the hole and can't get out.  To attract the hornets--place it within 6-10 feet of a known nest approximately 4-6 feet from the ground.

Please note: This will only attract honey bees if there isn't adequate pollen and water sources for them.

 Flea and Tick Shampoo

1/4 Cup regular blue Dawn dish soap
1/4 Cup Apple Cider Vinegar
1/2 Cup Warm Water

Mix all ingredients into a bottle and shake well. Apply on your pet and massage into skin. Be sure to get from the neck to the tip of the tail and paws. Massage soap into your pet’s coat for approximately 5 minutes. Rinse thoroughly, and then rinse again to make sure you got all the mixture out. Once your pet’s coat is dry, use a fine tooth comb to comb through your animal’s to remove any dead fleas.

Repeat treatment a time or two for really bad infestations.

Flea & Tick Remedy ♥

8 oz apple cider vinegar
4 oz warm water
1/2 tsp salt
1/2 tsp baking soda

Mix dry ingredients first then slowly add to wet as the vinegar and baking soda will react slightly. Put into spray bottle and spray pets down. Be careful not to get in pets eyes.

Use Borax throughout the house, sprinkle it on the carpets and let sit for a few hours, then vacuum. This should kill all the fleas and ticks in your home and on your pets.

* It is safe for any animal, apple cider vinegar has a shelf life of about 3-5 years so I would assume you'd be fine to store it for a long time, just keep it out of direct sunlight and it shouldn't spoil. As for application, if your pet if flea and tick free then once a week, or after every bath. If they're infested, spray every couple days until infestation is gone, then do maintenance spraying of once a week or after every bath.

* Borax on animals: I wouldn't put borax directly on the animals, it might irritate their skin, but use on the floor is perfectly fine. I've used this combo in the past when I had dogs and cats that were indoor/outdoor. Works great! Also cedar chips in and around pet beds works to repel fleas and ticks.

I also use household laundry detergent for flea control in my dog houses, kennel runs and in my yard.  Simple scatter the soap powder (non-phosphorus, please!!)  and turn on the water sprinklers--or let it rain!!  Liquid  laundry soap will also work--place it in a 5-gallon bucket--add water with a power nozzle and spread  the soap foam around with back of a rack, floor broom or water hose spray.  Repeat the soap treatment in 7-10 days for any new hatched fleas--and repeat once again in 7-10 days.  I have used this approach very successfully in sandy and rocky soils--will not hurt your grass, and is non toxic to pets, animals, and you!!

I hope some of this information maybe helpful.  Enjoy your summer activities with your pet and stay safe!!

Catie C. Arney

KioKee Mastiffs

Hickory, NC

Any comments may be directed to kiokeemastiffs@embarqmail.com

Gloria Davis--Lionhearted Mastiffs--Update 2013

It's now been three years since I received the e-mail that informed me of the abuse and  neglect of the  Lionhearted dogs.  At this time, an open homicide investgation  is being conducted by the Anderson County Sheriff's departement in the dissappearence of Gloria Davis.. The local authorities in Anderson, SC, SLED, and the FBI have all been involved in this investigation.

Truth. None of Gloria's friends or family have had any contact with her since December 2009. All of her personal belongings including her ID, SS card, driver's license, Checking account information, personal belongings, and her car were found in the house on the Anderson property. Since her disappearance, there has been no activity on her SS card/number, banking account, credit cards, or any other personal information. Gloria Davis has basically fell off the face of the earth.

Much has been discovered and discussed in the months since this event surfaced. So many unanswered questions remain, and will remain until Gloria can be located. Somewhere, someone has information relating to Gloria's disappearance. It is the hope and prayers of Gloria's friends and family that those who hold the missing pieces to this story will step forward. Gloria's sons, grand children, and her mother all deserve closure.

IFf you feel you have information relating to the disappearance of Gloria Davis, please contact the investigating officer in Anderson, SC-- Detective Wayne Mills. Any piece of information may be the link so needed in this investigation.  This  Information is needed so that Gloria can be brought home to her family.  He can be reached at wmills@andersonsheriff.com.

On a personal note--I will never stop asking questions. I will never stop looking for information. I will never believe that Gloria walked away from her home, her dogs, her family and her friends. Gloria was not a perfect person, but none of us are or will ever be. Gloria and her dogs deserve justice and peace. I believe in Karma and I believe in God's justice. In time, we will have our answers. In time, those who are responsible for these horrendous deeds will answer; if not in man's court, in God's court.  If you have knowledge of this case--you need to step forward and speak up.

It is still hard for me to write or discuss this case. Since it is an open case, much can't be discussed at present. I would ask that each who reads this blog --do what I do. I pray each day for strength and guidance for Detective Mills, and peace for Gloria's family.  Hope that each of you who reads this blog will do the same--say a prayer for Gloria.

I see Gloria's love and devotion for her dogs in my Gracie and Hope--I see Max in Gracie and Hope's puppies.  Last Febuary, Gracie gifted us with 5 beautiful Fawn boys--and the boy I kept-KioKee Morrigam's Turbo Max-- I named after his grandfather--Gloria's Max.  My beautiful dark brindle baby girl, Rumor, also a Max grand-daughter-- carries the dark brindle gene that Gloria loved so much--and she bears the Lionhearted name  in honor of Gloria. I know Gloria would be so proud of her and Turbo. I wish she was here to see them.

Catie Arney, KioKee Mastiffs Hickory, NC
kiokeemastiffs@embarqmail.com

Why am I a breeder?

I was recently asked why did I begin breeding Mastiffs.  The story is simple.  Like many others, I met and owned a Mastiff that taught me the value of this breed.  He stole my family and my hearts, gave us unconditional love and devotion, and was the most intelligent dog I have ever met. I felt this was a breed worthy of my time, money,and devotion.  That was almost 30 years ago.

Mastiffs are not an easy dog breed to own and raise.  The size and cost of just feeding can be too much for some owners.  Rescue is full of Mastiffs whom their owners could not provide for them.  Veterinary care is expensive--big dog equal big bills. Proper socialization  and training takes time and owner involvement; without this "sweat equity" by the owner you end up with a rather large, uncouth, untrained dog that may develop behavior problems--and once again, rescue takes up the slack.

Mastiff Breeders often invest large amounts of money and time into raising,  health testing, showing, and training  a dog before it is ever bred.  Some OFA exams can't be done until a dog is 2 years old.  Some genetic disorders  don't manifest until Mastiffs are older than 2-3 years of age (Cystinuria and epilepsy).  Often a prudent breeder will wait until 3-4 years of age before doing the first breeding, and it may be the only breeding done with that female.  In my experience, the average cost of health testing can run between $1500.00 and $2500.00 per dog varying on how many tests need to be done.  Brucollosis testing must be done on the dam and sire to be bred to insure neither have this disease.

Speaking of sires--let's don't forget the stud fee cost which may vary from 1 or 2 puppies (often the 1st pick  and 3rd puppies) to a fee ranging from $1800.00 to $3,500.00. I recently saw a listing for a Mastiff stud for $6000.00.  I don't think I will be breeding to him anytime soon.

Infertility is a huge problem for Mastiff breeders--many Mastiff litters consist of only 1 or 2 puppies. Breeders often need to do progesterone testing to know when the timing is right to breed--and the breeding window may only be 12-24 hours.  The breed is essentially "man-made"--the males are often 70-100+ lbs larger than the females making natural breeding difficult or impossible. Thus, the services of a Reproductive Veterinarian is required for an artificial insemination or a surgical implant--with cost varying from $1200.00 to 3000.00 per dog.  I once went for over 7 years without a successful breeding.  I have had 3 females-- of which two were  AKC champions and  health tested --NEVER sucessfully be bred .  I have also had males who at 3 years of age were sterile.  It happens.

 Getting your girl bred is just the first step.  Keeping her pregnant is the next.  So many factors can affect a bred female  and contribute to her successfully carrying a litter to term--from age, stress, heat/cold temapatures, diet, thyroid issues, to general overall health.  Females who have ultrasounds at 5 weeks and are shown to be pregnant often fail to produce  but only one , two, or no  any living puppies at 9 weeks.   Pregnant females have been know to develop pyrometria after 5 weeks--and loose the entire litter and require a spay in order to save their life.

Next, it's the safe delivery of the puppies.  Often Dams can't whelp naturally due to the large size of the puppies, or they develop uterine inertia and their labor stops. The female can have a severely hard labor trying to deliver large puppies-- tear her uterus and bleed to death.  Many of us breeders schedule a c-section to prevent these issues--and this can add $2000.00-3000.00 to your costs.

Finally, you have the raising of the puppies.  Hopefully, your female will be able to nurse and have milk--if not you will be required to bottle fed for 3 weeks or more--that will add $300.00 to 500.00 per puppy of labor and costs to your breeding budget.  I have a breeder friend who recent paid over $5000.00  to someone to raise her litter to 8 weeks.  Mastiff mother are notorious for stepping, laying, and crushing their puppies--so they require 24 hr a day supervision when with the puppies.These puppies will require worming medications , vaccinations, special food, registration costs, Vet exams, and micro chipping.  Let's don't even go there on how much that could cost the breeder.

 A vet once told me a 30% mortality in any litter was average. A fellow mastiff breeder once told me mMastiff puppies are born with an inadept desire to die.  In other words, thay can be very difficult to raise. Many a first time breeder has lost their entire litter in the first few weeks.

So, before the first dollar is paid to the breeder--a sustainable investment of labor, time and money has been made.  No wonder we are so  choosy who gets our puppies!!  Breeding Mastiffs is not for the faint of heart!!  In the past couple of years, we have learned of  a couple of breeders who went bust simply because they did not have any puppies to sell after accepting payemts for puppies--and ended up oweing lots of money to lots of people.  One is currently serving a jail sentance.  I never accept a deposit until I have puppies on the ground and they are at least 4 weeks old.  I just can't understand how you can sell a product (a puppy) until you have one to sell!!

Often there is not a price for a given puppy.  I have made it my custom to place puppies without cost as therapy dogs and emotional recovery dogs with Veteran with PTSD.  I have placed companion therapy dogs with individual with physical disabilities. No fee paid.  I have placed my puppies with other breeders without a fee.  Why?  It's not about the money--it's about putting the right dog where it needs to be.  If I can make enough money to pay my breeding costs--I'm happy--If I don't then I am fine with it. If dog breeding is suppose to be a "business"--then I am often a poor business women because I often don't make a profit.  Ask any ethical  Mastiff breeder who tries to breed health tested, champion dogs--it's a money pit.

Then there is the Code of Ethics most ethical  Mastiff breeders follow as published by the Mastiff Club of America.  There are yearly litter limits (no more than 8 in 2 years), a minimum and maximum age at which a female may be bred, how many times a year a female may be bred, and to whom and how a puppy may be sold.  Thus, many of us are what is refereed to as a "Hobby  or Show Breeder"--we do not mass produce puppies and are not considered a "commerical breeder".  Many of us simply breed enough to maintain the bloodlines of our dogs.

Sometimes the ill advised begin breeding Mastiffs thinking their is a huge profit to be made.  They see the big sale tags on pet store puppies and think there is a fortune to be made in breeding and selling puppies.  A few get lucky; they buy two dogs who breed naturally, the dam whelps her first litter unassisted, and raises the puppies without much owner involvement.  They sell most of  these puppies and make a tidy profit--which fuels the fire to repeat the process.  They may even keep a few Female puppies to raise to also breed in the future (hey, we made this much money on one litter, what if we could do 2 or 3?)-and usually they begin breeding these females when they are way too young.

Often it's not that first litter--it's the second or third litter--when all hell breaks loose.  The dam can't deliver the puppies on her own--the owner waits 24-48 hours  while she labors and can't deliver her puppies, and finally takes her to a vet.  An Emergency c-section is done--and dead puppies are removed--if the dam is lucky.  She may lay around in labor for 2-3 days till finally the owner takes her in to a vet to be examined.  Oh, he's not sure when she got bred--he just keeps them together when she's in heat.   The puppies are dead in side of her--and she is septic and dies on the operating table.   It happens.  A few unlucky expensive breeding episodes--and these dogs get dumped at the local animal shelter, or given or sold to some one else.  Once again rescue steps in to help place these dogs in loving homes.

Having said all this--now I will answer the question, "Why am I a breeder?".  I am a breeder because I love this breed.  I get great joy in seeing my puppies grow up and become beloved family members,  I derive great pride in seeing them work as therapy dogs bringing love and comfort to others.  I feel a sense of accomplishment when the tiny little puppy that I so carefully selected his parents, grand-parents, and great-grand-parents grows up to become a beautiful loving animal. I also see chararistics of all the dogs I have loved in the puppies that I breed, the love and devotion of those dogs reborn, and that gives me great comfort.  That's why I breed.

Catie C. Arney   Hickory, NC
kiokeemastiffs@embarqmail.com

Why should you buy from a Breeder?

Somewhere under this mess is a dog that was one of over 50 dogs rescued 1/14/2013 during the raid of an Amish puppy mill breeder. THIS is what you support when you purchase from a puppy mill breeder or a retailer that purchases the dogs they sell from a puppy mill.


These dogs live their lives in small pens or cages--often no bigger than what is necessary to keep the dog.  They are bred, whelp their puppies unassisted, raise their puppies unassisted, and when their puppies are old enough to eat solid food (or they are sold)--they are taken away and the mother is once again re-bred.  No love, no human companionship, no baths or brushing, only essential vet care at best, and when the adult dogs are no longer productive--they are hauled off to a USDA auction and sold--or put down.

There is no health testing-dogs with health issues are not eliminated from the breeding process.. No careful planning of pedigrees--dogs are bred on connivance--what is there is what gets bred; often litter mates are bred together. There is no careful evaluation as to the quality of the dog--a breed standard is never even a factor in the evaluation of a dog's breeding status.  If it has "papers"--then it's bred.

Let's talk about those"papers"--several pet registries exist sole for commmerical breeder to use to "register" their dogs at a minimal cost. These registration papers are simply worthless.  If you ask for a "pedigree"--you will see that generation after generation is dogs with no conformation, obedience, rally, agility, or therapy titles.  Simply a registration number and a name.

When you purchase a puppy from a pet store, you don't "save" that puppy--you condemn another puppy to the same fate.  It is simply replaced by the next one in line.  Once that puppy is sold--another is ordered to replace it.


Let's talk about pet store prices.  That cute little 8 week old puppy that was contracted and purchased from a puppy mill/commerical breeder probably cost $200-500.00 at the most.  The store purchase price--$2000.00 to 3500.00 (for a Mastiff puppy).  So let's think this through--->;(1).price often higher than if you bought directly from an ethical breeder, (2). questionable health status on the parents, (3). questionable care and health status on the puppy, (4). and no mentor or information resource (breeder) for you to go to when you have questions.  How much of a bargain is that pet store puppy?


Choosing a family companion should not be a spur of the moment decision.   Take time to research your breed--make sure it's dog that fits into your family's lifestyle.  Research breeders in your area--contact them and ask questions.  If possible,  go and visit several breeders--schedule a visit, meet them and their dogs. Are their dogs happy? Appear healthy? Is the breeder receptive to questions?  Can they provide you with health testing  and pedigree information?  Do you feel you can form a relationship with the breeder?

  Here is a link to a previous blog entry--" How to Avoid Poorly bred puppies"--written by Jan Lanz of Goldleaf mastiffs--and I think it says it all.  It provides some excellent points to remember when researching breeders.


 http://www.blogger.com/blogger.gblogID=3180173977580451866#editor/target=post;postID=4650247832227443959


I have stated this before and it bears repeating---Pet stores, back yard breeders and puppy millers bank on playing to your emotional responses--and your good and kind hearts. Sadly, this allows them to clear the way for their next litter of puppies. Often the buyer ends up with the heart ache of a sick and ailing puppy that often looks nothing like the breed they are suppose to represent.

You can pay up front--or you can pay later. Be an informed and educated buyer. Look for a breeder who strives to breed happy, healthy puppies from health tested parents that are good representatives of the breed.  Make a good choice and be a forever home for your pet.


Catie C. Arney Kiokee mastiffs Hickory, NC

Any comments or questions can be made at --kiokeemastiffs@embarqmail.com.  Thank you. C.

Health testing--Cystinuria in Mastiffs

One of the greatest health issues we have in Mastiffs is Cystinuria--a genetic urinary disease where the kidney forms cysteine stones.  These stones can completely block the kidneys, the ureters, the bladder, or the urethra. In Mastiffs, only the males exhibit these symptoms and test positive with the Urinary test; only one Mastiff female has every tested positive with the urinary test.

 Here is a link to he MCOA site with an excellent explanation of Cystinuria in Mastiffs----http://mastiff.org/CYSTINURIA.htm.

Here is also a link to information explaining cystinuria in Mastiffs and the new DNA marker test that has been developed.    http://www.worldmastiffforum.com/file?id=1449736

Now that you have that information in hand (and head)   here are 2 charts I have developed to show how just one dog carrying cystinuria may affect several generations of dogs.

If the male is affected by Cystinuria--

If a female is an unknown carrier---



So, it is extremely important that Mastiffs used in a breeding program be tested for cystinuria. The Cystinuria Nitroprusside test is a simple urine collection which does not require a vet visit but can easily be collected by the owner or breeder preferably 2-4 hours after the dog has eaten. The sample is chilled or frozen and shipped overnight to the PennGen testing lab at UPenn along with a filled out  Cystinuria Urine Submission Form.

Since only males exhibit symptoms, there is strong support for x-related  inheritance--mothers carry it--sons exhibit it and  daughters carry it.  So it's quite possible for Cystinuria to be carried for several generations without being detected.  Often only one in seven dogs form stones, so dogs that don't form stones may not be detected by the nitroprusside urinary test.  Until here recently, it was the best we could do--screen our dogs yearly before breeding.

Thanks to the research at UPenn, we now have DNA test for one type of cystinuria--the type that forms stones--so both males and females can be tested to see if they carry the gene (carry 1 copy of the gene), or if they are affected (carry 2 copies of the gene).  Many of us consider this a huge breakthrough in the prevention and management of this very devastating disease.

Make sure any puppy you buy is bred from Cystinuria tested  dogs.  This disease is life threatening in males who develop stones.

I have always done the Urinary testing my boys, and insisted it be done on any outside male I used for stud.  Within the next few months, I will be completing the DNA testing on all my adult breeding dogs.  I hope each and every Mastiff breeder will do the same.

Catie Arney,  KioKee Mastiffs, Hickory, NC
kiokeemastiffs@embarqmai.com

Spaying your Mastiff

Just this past week, another Mastiff friend sadly reported losing her Mastiff female to complications from a spay.  Post-op bleeding and hemorrhage is a huge risk we take when we spay these giant breed females.  I myself lost a female to this same post-op complication.

Since anesthesia is also a risk, most of the Mastiff breeders and owners I know are also reluctant to place their dogs under any additional anesthesia procedures, so we do it with great care and much consideration.  Some of us will risk doing a spay with a c-section just to prevent us from having to put our girl under an additional time.

During a recent conversation with a reproductive Vet, I was presented with a very interesting alternative to the complete spay (removal of the Ovaries, Fallopian tubes and Uterus)--just the removal of the ovaries.  The ovaries produce the hormone of the heat cycle, the estrogen that causes pyrometera and vaginal hyperplasia. So, if we remove the ovaries, we remove the hormone source--we stop these hormonal processes--the main reason we spay a female!! 

Please note-- This is considered an experiential procedure at present--but it makes perfectly good common sense to me!!  Within the next year, I will be doing this alternative procedure to the traditional spay with at least three of my girls. I plan on following up with an evaluation of long-term heath benefits, advantages, and disadvantages.

This procedure could also be done at the same time as a c-section (just remove the ovaries) reducing the possibility of post-op bleeding and hemorrhage. A bitch can still nurse her puppies and her uterus will contract and reduce in size since Oxytocin is produced by the posterior pituitary gland.  Your girl can have the benefits of a "spay" at the same time as her c-section with a lessor risk of post-op bleeding.

By not cutting all those large blood vessels to remove the uterus (arteries and veins) and other tissues, we eliminate those sites as potential post-op bleeding sources with  less surgical invasion and potentially quicker healing. Instead of an open incision,  a laporscoptic Bilateral oophorectomy (removal of ovaries) instead of the traditional spay could be done. Anesthesia time would be less, surgical trauma will be less, healing time would be shorter--and IMO, your girl would do better.

I suggest owners discuss this adaption to the traditional spay with your vet.  Get their recommendations to see if it would be a viable choice for you and your dog.   It could save your girl.

Catie Arney  KioKee Mastiffs, Hickory, NC
kiokeemastiffs@embarqmail.com