Health Testing--What is Hip Dysplasia?

I get a lot of e-mails asking about "health Testing"; so, this month I thought I would do a series of entries that deal with an explanation of the different "health testing" we do as breeders. Since the most complex and hardest to understand at times is the testing we do for Hip Dysplasia, let's start with it.

What is Canine Hip Dysplasia (CHD)?

Canine Hip Dysplasia can affect millions of dogs each year and can also result in debilitating orthopedic disease of the hip. Many dogs will suffer from osteoarthritis, pain, and lameness costing owners and breeders millions of dollars in veterinary care, a shorten lifespan and reduced quality of life for affected dogs. The occurrence of HD is well documented in Mastiffs as well as many other large and giant breeds and is also prevalent in many toy and small dog breeds as well as cats.

The term hip dysplasia(HD) can be interpreted as the abnormal or faulty development of the hip. Abnormal development of the hip causes excessive wear of ther joint cartilage during weight bearing, eventually leading to the development of arthritis, often called degenerative joint disease (DJD) or osteoarthritis. The terms DJD, arthritis, and osteoarthritis are often used interchangeably.

Hip dysplasia was first described in 1937 by Dr. Gerry B. Schnelle in a paper entitled Bilateral Congenital Subluxation of the Coxofemoral Joints of a Dog. He wrote: "the condition described herein, rare thought it may be, should be recognized as being congenital and potentially hereditary, and the dog or bitch in which it occurs should be destroyed or sterilized in the eugenic interests of the breed."


In 1966, Henricson,Norberg, and Olsson refined the definition of CHD describing it as: "A varying degree of laxity of the hip joint permitting sublaxation during early life, giving rise to varying degrees of shallow acetabulum and flattening of the femoral head, finally inevitably leading to osteoarthritis."


Today, the general veterinary consensus is that hip dysplasia is hip laxity resulting in osteoarthritis.

Just by defination alone, we can see that CHD is a disease of complex factors based primarily on inheritance, and why ethical dog breeders and Veterinarians have attempted to eliminate CHD through selective breeding and care.



What is a Dysplastic Joint?

Hip Dysplasia is a terrible genetic disease because of the various degrees of arthritis (also called degenerative joint disease, arthrosis, osteoarthrosis) which it can eventually produce that leads to pain, overall loss of range of motion in the hip joints, and debilitation.

The very first step in the development of arthritis is articular cartilage (the type of cartilage lining the joint) damage due to the inherited bad biomechanics of an abnormally developed hip joint. Traumatic articular fracture through the joint surface is another way cartilage is damaged.


With cartilage damage, lots of degradative enzymes are released into the joint. These enzymes degrade and decrease the synthesis of important constituent molecules that form hyaline cartilage called proteoglycans. This causes the cartilage to lose its thickness and elasticity, which are important in absorbing mechanical loads placed across the joint during movement.


Eventually, more debris and enzymes spill into the joint fluid and destroy molecules called glycosaminoglycan and hyaluronate which are important precursors that form the cartilage proteoglycans. The joint's lubrication and ability to block inflammatory cells are lost and the debris-tainted joint fluid loses its ability to properly nourish the cartilage through impairment of nutrient-waste exchange across the joint cartilage cells.


The damage then spreads to the synovial membrane lining the joint capsule and more degradative enzymes and inflammatory cells stream into the joint. Full thickness loss of cartilage allows the synovial fluid to contact nerve endings in the subchondral bone, resulting in pain. In an attempt to stabilize the joint to decrease the pain, the animal's body produces new bone at the edges of the joint surface, joint capsule, ligament and muscle attachments (bone spurs). The joint capsule also eventually thickens and the joint's range of motion decreases.

No one can predict when or even if a dysplastic dog will start showing clinical signs of lameness due to pain. There are multiple environmental factors such as caloric intake, level of exercise, and weather that can affect the severity of clinical signs and phenotypic expression (radiographic changes). There is no rhyme or reason to the severity of radiographic changes correlated with the clinical findings. There are a number of dysplastic dogs with severe arthritis that run, jump, and play as if nothing is wrong and some dogs with barely any arthritic radiographic changes that are severely lame.

FYI-One can not just "look" at the movement of a dog and determine that it does not have CHD. Only through x-rays can we determine if a dog is clear of hip dyspasia. As a breeder, one must evaluate any dog to be bred and determine if it is free of hip dysplasia before breeding!

How do you Test for CHD?


One "tests" for CHD by x-raying hips. This simply assures the breeder that the dog being bred does not have CHD. When a breeder health tests for CHD, it is the hope that with each succeeding generation that is bred from clear dogs, the puppies produced should have improved/better hips. OK. So what does these "scores" mean?


To a beginner, just looking at the hip "scores" can be confusing. What do they mean and how are they interprettted? Which ones are best? Here is the United States, the most common methods of evaluating hips is the OFA (Orthopedic Foundation for Animals) and the Penn Hip system (University of Pennsylvania Hip Improvement Program). Since many Mastiffs have imported lines from England, we will also look at the system used in the United Kingdom (England) and Austrialia : the British Veterinary Association (BVA).


When it comes to testing, various breeders have different opinions to which system is better and many a heated debate can result from discussing the pros and cons of each system. For the purpose of this entery, I will only discuss the basics priniciples of each system so as to provide an explaination. The most important aspect is to test and vertify your dogs are clear of hip dysplasia before breeding irregardless of the system you use. PERIOD.

I. OFA-Orthopedic Foundation for Animals

I have always used the OFA system to rate and score my dogs' hips. I find it easier to explain to people (puppy buyers) and for most people it makes sense. Please refer to the OFA website at http://www.offa.org/hipgrade.html as my information source. Please note later in this entry I will later compare the Pennhip and BVA to the OFA system I will be using the same definations of Normal and dysplasic terms.

The phenotypic evaluationand "ratings" of hips by OFA falls into seven different categories; these categories are the Normal ratings (Excellent, Good, and Fair), Borderline, and Dysplasic (Mild, Moderate, and Severe). Three independent outside evaluations by Orthopedic Radiology Specialists are done for each rating with each classifing the hip intoi one of the 7 phenotype described above. The finial hip grade is decieded by a consensus of these three scores. For example:

(1). Two radiologist report excellent, one good--the finial score would be excellent.

(2). One radiologist reports excellent, one good, and one fair--the finial score would be Good.

(3). One radiologist reports fair, and two report mild--the finial score would be mild.

All normal hip scores (Excellent, Good and Fair) are given OFA Numbers. This information is only accepted by AKC on dogs with pernament identification (tattoos or microcips) and is recorded in the Public domain or open data base (i.e. anyone can look up these results to vertify them--just go to http://www.offa.org/). X-rays of borderline, mild, moderate and severe dysplasic hip scores are reviewed and a report is sent documenting the abnormal findings. Unless the owner has chosen to allow abnormal scores to be listed in the open data base, dysplasic hip grades are not in the public domain.

Let's look at a visual example and explaination of each rating. The illustrations used below are examples from the OFA site.

Excellent

The Excellent (Figure 1) classification is assigned for superior conformation in comparison to other animals of the same age and breed. There is as deep seated well formed ball (femoral head) which fits tightly into a well formed socket (acetabulum with minimal joint space. There is almost complete coverage of the socket over the ball.

Good

The Good (Figure 2) classification is slightly less than superior (excellent) but a well-formed congruent hip joint is visualized. The ball fits well into the socket and good coverage is present.

Fair

The Fair (Figure 3) classification is assigned where minor irregularies in the hip joint exist. The hip joint is wider than a Good hip phenotype which is usually due to minor joint incongruency ( i.e. the ball slightly slips out of the socket). There may also be slight inward deviation of the weight-bearing surfaces of the socket(dorsal acetabular rim) causing the socket to appear shallow (Figure 4). This can be a normal finding in some breeds (i.e. Chinese Shar Pei, Chow Chow, and Poodle).

Borderline

For the Borderline classification, there is no clear cut consensus between the radilologists to place the hip into a given category of normal or dysplasic. There is usually more incongruency present than the usually minor amount found in a Fair, but there are no arthritic changes present that definanetly place the hip joint in the dysplasic classifications. There may also be a bony growth present on any of the areas of the hip anatomy that can not be accurately assessed as being an abnormal arthritic change or as a normal anatomic variant for that individual dog.

To increase the accuracy of a correct diagonsis, it is recommended to repeat the x-rays at a later date (usually 6 months). This allows the radiologist to be able to compare the orginal film with the most recent film over a given time period and assess for progressive arthritic changes that would be expected if the dog was truely dysplasic. Most dogs with this score (over 50%) show no change in hip conformation and recieve a normal rating; usually a Fair.

Mild Dysplasia

In Mild Canine Hip Dysplasia (Figure 5) there is signifcant sublaxation presemnt where the ball is partially out of the socket causing anincongruent increase joint space. The socket is usually shallow and only partially covers the ball. There are usually no arthritic changes present if the dog is young ( 24 to 30 months of age), and there is an option to resubmit x-rays when the dog is older so it can be reevaluated a second time. However, most dogs will remain dysplasic showing disease progression with early arthritic changes. Since HD is a chronic, progressive disease, the older the dog, the more accurate the diagonsis of HD (or the lack of HD).

Moderate Dysplasia

In Moderate Canine Hip Dysplasia there is significant sublaxation present in the joint socket with the ball barely seated into a shallow shoket caused marked joint incongruency. There are secondary arthritic bone changes usually along the femoral head and neck (called remodeling), acetabular rim changes (called oseophytes or bone spurs) and various degrees of trabecular bone pattern changes called sclerosis. Once arthritis is reported, one can expcet continued progression of arthritis over time.

Severe

A Severe Hip Dyplasia (Figure 6) is assigned where radiographic evidence of marked dysplasia exists. There is significant subluxation present where the ball is partly or completely out of a shallow socket. Like moderate HD, there are also large amounts of secondary arthritic bone changes along the femoral neck and head, acetabular rim changes and large amounts of abnormal bone pattern changes.

II. PennHIP

In 1983, Dr Gail Smith from the University of Pennsylvania School of Veterinanry Medicine devloped a new method for the early diagonsis of CHD. The research conducted in his lab proved his new method to be capable of estmating the susceptibility for CHD in dog as young as 16 weeks.

In 1993, Dr. Smith established PennHIP to serve as a multi-center of clinical trial of his new hip dysplasia diagnostic technology. The program was sucessful and quickly grew beyound the capabiolities of a university research lab. Initailly, PennHIP was licensed to outside biotech companies but PennHIP has recently been reaquired by the University of Pennsylvania and is now a not-for-profit organization.

Some breeders use and prefer the PennHIP exam since it can be used on dogs as young as 16 weeks of age. It gives a breeder an advantage of a tool for early evaluation and looking at joint laxity (losseness) which is the greatest risk factor for the development of DJD.

Before PennHIP, the definations of CHD were vague as to the degree or amount of laxity requires to develop arthritic changes. the degree of hip joint laxity, as measured by the PennHIP method has been shown to be the most important risk factor in determining whether a dog is prone to developing CHD. Please refer to the PennHIP website, http://www.pennhip.org/ for more information.

PennHIP is a different way to assess, measure and interpret hip joint laxity--ie. another method of evaulating hips and diagonsising hip dysplasia. Where the OFA method uses just one view ( the hip-entended view), PennHIP uses three seperate x-rays: the distraction view, the compression view and the hip-extended view. Please refer to the pictures below for an example of each different x-ray view on the same dog.

Distraction View Compression View

Hip-Extended View

(This is also them same view used by OFA)

If you look at the x-rays above, in each view you will notice that the joint laxity (looseness) is very diferent. Although each view is of the same dog, please note that the laxity is much greater in the distraction view than in the hip-extended view. On the average, the distraction vies has been shown to revel 2.5-11 times more hip laxity (depending on the breed) than the hip-extended view. Using the comparsion of the three views allows the PennHIP method to measure hip joint laxity with greater percision than the hip-extended method alone.

According to PenHIP, since CHD is a developmental disease (meaning it is not present at birth, but develops with age) a breeder or owner may be able better predict which puppies may have hip problems later in life by looking at the degree of hip laxity.

A PennHIP rating is given as a numerical rating and gives a rating for each hip individually ( a rating for the right hip vs. the left hip) and an overall percentage rating that is breed specfic-i.e it will tell you where your dog "ranks" among other Mastiff results. However it should be noted that the "pool" of results used for this rating is not as generalized or as large as OFA. Often breeders may use PennHipp to get a rating for a dog that has failed it's OFAs--thus the "pool" of dogs that this average is pulled from may be slightly skewered.

You will not see a "fail" rating for a PennHipp unless the dog is severely dysplasic. Thus the "%" ratings can be misleading to an unknowing puppy buyer.

IMO-if a dog does not have a 90% rating--I'm not interested in breeding to it. A rating of 30 to 50% may actually be rated "dysplasic" by OFA terms and scores. Please keep this information in mind when looking at PennHipp scores.

There is no clear cut "excellent", "good" or "fair" with pennhipp and the related range is going to vary from breed to breed. IMO--way too confusing for the average puppy buyer.

(Please note :At the bottom of this entry I will give a table that correlates OFA , PennHIP , FCI, SV and BVA results. I found it very helpful to me! The PennHip scores are an approximation for the Mastiff breed only. In order to be as accurate as possible--I did not try and "rate" the dysplasic scores--only the passing scores.)

III. British Veterinary Association (BVA)

Often as Mastiff breeders, we find it difficult to find Mastiffs from England that have "health" testing done--esp. hips! Why? Until recently in England, there has been very little emphasis placed on clearing dogs of health issues before breeding. Health and Soundness was not necessarily a goal with all breeders. With the advent of improved methods to complete health testing, and an international interest in the importing of health tested dogs; we now see more of the dogs being bred in England that are being health tested.

The BVA system is the one most commonly available in the United Kingdom (England) with most veterinary clinics having experience in using this method. Since no repeat submissions are allowed, it is best if one uses a clinician who has a good deal of experience in doing this exam and the proper equipment to obtain good quality x-rays. Dogs must be at least 12 month old to be BVA scored, but 18 months gives a more reliable result for large breeds (i.e. Mastiffs) and is the sugessted age for this test.

When evaluating a BVA score, it is important too take into account how the score is made up. Both hips should be more or less symmetrical; a significant difference in the two hips can either be genetic or the result of trauma. On the printed report a notation is made relating to positioning and film quality.Each hip scored on 9 different aspects. Scores in the first 3 boxes indicate the conformation of the hip (shape of the head, neck and socket), scores in the remaining 6 boxes indicate secondary changes/arthritiis/DJD. Healthy dogs should have 0's in the last 6 boxes.

Here is an example of how a reporting form would appear.

Thus, the higher the BVA score the greater the degree of dysplasia. I have provided a comparison to the OFA ratings in the table at the end of this entry.

How can I compare the different ratings?

Of course, any rating is subjective to human error. No system of testing is perfect--but it is the best we have to use at present. The mode of Hip dysplasia is unknown, but is believed to be recessive in nature--i.e. an dog can carry the gene and still be "normal". Thus, it is possible for "clear" parents to produce a puppy with hip dysplasia.

Health testing simply aids a breeder in eliminating dogs that are affected. At present there is no DNA test for CHD, so NOT breeding affected dogs is our best answer to improving the overall hips of any given breed.

Please note in the table below how each of the different evaluation methods (OFA, Penn HIP, FCI (used in Europe) , SV (used in Germany) & BVA (used in UK and Australia) results compared to each other. Please note the PennHipp scores are an approximation for the Mastiff breed only.

International Hip Score Comparison Table
Copyright 1998 Tamaryn Hodge
This table is provided as an un-official means of comparing international hip scores, as there is currently no official FCI comparison data available for all countries listed here. Total accuracy cannot therefore be guaranteed. Please e-mail the originator at BritishLeos@aol.com with any corrections. Thanks from the originator goes to the following people for their assistance in creating this table: Arthur Muller, Gerie Groenendijk, Waltraut Zieher, Yves De Clerq, Susan Grosslight, Glen Ferguson, Jenny Bergdahl.

Classification	Classification	FINLAND	NETHERLANDS	GERMANY	SWEDEN	SWITZERLAND	USA	GREAT BRITAIN	Classification
A1	No signs of hip dysplasia	El - dysplasiaa "hyval"	Negatief geheel gaaf (1)	Kein Hinweis fuer HD	Utmark	Frei	Excellent	Total score of 0 - 4	A1
A2	No signs of hip dysplasia	El - dysplasiaa	Negatief niet geheel gaaf (2)	Kein Hinweis fuer HD	UA	Frei	Good	Total score of 5 - 10	A2
B1	Transitional Case	Rajatapaus	Transitional Case (Tc)	Obergangs - form verdaechtig fuer HD	UA	Frei	Fair	Total score of 11 - 18	B1
B2	Transitional Case	Rajatapaus	Transitional Case (Tc)	Obergangs - form verdaechtig fuer HD	I	I	Borderline	Total score of 18+	B2
C1	Mild	I	Licht positief (3)	Leichte HD	I	I	Mild HD	Total score of 18+	C1
C2	Mild	I	Licht positief (3)	Leichte HD	I	I	Mild HD	Total score of 18+	C2
D1	Moderate	II	Positief (3.5)	Mittlere HD	II	II	Moderate HD	Total score of 18+	D1
D2	Moderate	II	Positief (4)	Mittlere HD	II	II	Moderate HD	Total score of 18+	D2
E1	Severe	III	Positief (4)	Schwere HD	III	III	Severe	Total score of 18+	E1
E2	Severe	IV	Positief optima forma (5)	Schwere HD	IV	IV	Severe	Total score of 18+	E2

Pleaase forward any comments or questions to kiokeemastiffs@embarqmail.com. Thank you. Catie Arney Kiokee Mastiffs

2009--More inquiries about American Mastiffs with behavioral problems.

Often when an American Mastiff (AmMa) owner can't get a response to their inquires from their breeder, they look to a Mastiff breeder/owner for answers. It seems that my blog shows up quite often when they do an Internet search looking for information. I do try to be objective in my responses, but we hear the same story told over and over again.

Like many other Mastiff breeders, I am often "accused" by the AmMa community of being afraid that I may lose a puppy sale to an AmMa Breeder. Believe me, that is not why I object to the breeding of designer dogs. In order to present an objective view of the questions and inquiries I receive, I have begun posting some of the e-mail/inquires I get on a monthly from AmMa owners and the problems they have experienced with their dog.

As I have stated before, breeders in the Mastiff community are often approached by AmMA owners who have dogs with "issues". At this time, the AmMa community still has not stepped up to the plate and assumed 100% responsibility for the dogs that they have bred. I have a problem with that approach.

A very important part of being a breeder is taking responsibility for what you have bred. Since so many of these AmMa breeders consider themselves on the "cutting edge" of developing a new breed, you would think that they would follow up on the dogs they have produced--What did it look like as an adult? Did it meet the breed standard in conformation? What kind of temperament did it have? Did the owner experience any behavioral problems? But most importantly, are the owners happy with the dog? Was it easy to train? DID IT HAVE ANY HEALTH PROBLEMS? At this time there is still no follow through with the AmMa breeders as to breeder responsibility.

Look at the owner testimonials on some of the AmMa breeder websites--you see a lot of references to dogs that have died young or those with health issues. This alone is enough to debunk the "improved overall health" myth. Sadly, most of these owners are going back for a second dog from the same source!

Many of these AmMa breeders are asking puppy prices that are the same as most Mastiff breeders who are breeding from multiple generations of health testing. When you spend $1800 for a puppy--you should be entitled to some degree of health and temperament guarantee. Thankfully, most states now have puppy "lemon" laws that can address this problem.

Here is a recent inquiry I was sent by an AmMa owner and my response.

Hi, my name is Abby and I have been reading your posts on the American Mastiff breed. I bought my AmMa from Flying W Farms and have had issues with my dog ever since I became pregnant 2 years ago. My loyal, loving female very suddenly became overly protective and started showing signs of aggression. I now have a 21 month old and a 5 month old and while she is good with my children, she no longer tolerates our other dog! We have a min-pin, they were raised together since pups (both now 4 years old) and my AmMa who was once protective of our min-pin now growls at him and has bitten him once. She is loving towards him while playing outside, but the minute she comes back into the house she starts to growl and wants him no where near my children. I am at a loss with my situation. And, to boot, when I called Flying W, she told me that I never should have gotten my mastiff until AFTER I had children!! She said my mastiff is taking her dislike of my children out on my min-pin and that she will probably kill him. I did not know it made a difference when you had kids with dogs, especially a Mastiff. Have you ever heard of a dog suddenly not getting along with the other pet after kids come into the picture? I am wondering if my kids are safe around her... do you have any suggestions? Would a dog trainer be able to help the situation, or will I have to find another home for her??
-- Abby _____________

Abby,

Your girl is demonstrating her "guarding" instincts--she feels the need to protect your children from the other dog. It makes no difference that they were raised together--she has assumed the Alpha role in your "pack" and feels it's her job to protect your kids.

She will also act this way toward other adults and children whom she views as a "danger" to your children. No Play dates for your kids at your home, please. If some other child made one of your kids squeal, cry, or fall--they could get bit. NEVER leave this dog unsupervised with visitors--esp. children.

As far as the opinion that the dog is taking her dislike of your kids out on the other dog--horseapples. That is a totally accusatory statement made to relieve the breeder of any responsibility. In other words--she wants you to feel as if it's all your fault because you had kids! I place Mastiffs with families all the time--before and after they have kids should not make any difference if the dog has a stable temperament.

Working with a trainer may give you better control over her, and help make her follow your commands better--but, no--you will not be able to "train" her out of this behavior--because it's an instinct. Your AmMa may look like a mastiff, but it definitely thinks and acts much differently--it is wired more like a "guarding Breed" and unfortunately your girl has now matured and these instincts have come forward. This presents a management problem for you and your family--and a possible liability.
Abby,

Your girl is demonstrating her "guarding" instincts--she feels the need to protect your children from the other dog. It makes no difference that they were raised together--she has assumed the Alpha role in your "pack" and feels it's her job to protect your kids.

She will also act this way toward other adults and children whom she views as a "danger" to your children. No Play dates for your kids at your home, please. If some other child made one of your kids squeal, cry, or fall--they could get bit. NEVER leave this dog unsupervised with visitors--esp. children.

As far as the opinion that the dog is taking her dislike of your kids out on the other dog--horseapples. That is a totally accusatory statement made to aleve the breeder of any responsibility. In other words--she wants you to feel as if it's all your fault because you had kids! I place Mastiffs with families all the time--before and after they have kids should not make any difference if the dog has a stable temperament.

Working with a trainer may give you better control over her, and help make her follow your commands better--but, no--you will not be able to "train" her out of this behavior--because it's an instinct. Your AmMa may look like a mastiff, but it definitely thinks and acts much differently--it is wired more like a "guarding Breed" and unfortunately your girl has now matured and these instincts have come forward. This presents a management problem for you and your family--and a possible liability.

Yes, there is a very good chance she may injure or kill your toy dog--or any other dog you bring into the home. Neighborhood cats who come into your yard are taking a chance. On a walk, She could go after a smaller dog and injure it if it trespassed to close to you and your children. Even with you standing there--you may not be able to stop her.

Anatolian Shepherds (AS) were breed to catch and kill wolves that threatened their flocks--these dogs were developed to be independent dogs not dependant on humans for guidance or direction. Many of these original working herd dogs may go for days without ever seeing a human--or needing one. They are bred to be a solitary dogs.

Mastiffs were bred in a much different manner--Mastiffs need to company of their humans and thrive in a group or "pack" arrangement. They are a true "working" breed--developed to be Man's helpmate and companion.

The Flying W had corrupted both these breeds--this "designer" dog is not an improved Mastiff but a bargain basement mutt with more health and temperament issues than any dog needs. It simply is not a Mastiff--I don't care what they claim. A few may favor and act more like the Mastiff--but then some (like your dog) will have more of the solitary guarding instincts of the AS.

Spaying her will not help--in fact it may make her more aggressive toward other dogs. Working with a trainer will simply make her behave better when you are around.

As a parent and a grandparent--I have always had Mastiffs with my family. As my kids were growing up, every kid in the neighborhood played with my kids and dogs at our house. Someone might have gotten bumped occasionally when a game of chase was in process--but never would one of my dogs have harmed any child. I place lots of Mastiffs with families, and many of these families have other pets--and get other pets after they get their Mastiff.

Would I keep her? No. As someone who has worked with rescue for many years and who had worked with dogs with temperament issues--I do not see this as a fixable situation.

First choice-I would return her to the Flying W--BTW she will not refund any of your money and she will just re-sell the dog to someone else--and make her take responsibility for it. As the breeder, she should take responsibility for the dogs she breeds. My guess is that she will refuse to take it back.

Second choice--The responsible thing would be take her to your vet and put her down. Giving her away to someone else would be just passing the problem on--she will not be "better" with a different family. She truly can't stop herself from being the way she is and as time goes by--it will accelerate and become more pronounced.

Putting her to sleep is the most humane thing you can do--yes, it will be hard for you and your family but it is a decision that some do have to make as responsible dog owners. Let her leave this world knowing that she was loved.

If your vet refuses to put her down--then take her to animal control and explain about her temperament and aggression.. Make sure they do not place her up for adoption. If it was me--I would stay with her until they put her down.

The solution is not pretty. She will eventually bite someone or go after your smaller dog and kill it. That would not be a situation you would want your kids to witness. Putting her to sleep is the lessor evil.

Good luck. I am so sorry your are faced with this decision. I hate to say it--but I and other Mastiff Breeders hear this story all the time. You are not the first and you will not be the last.

Your story is just one of the reasons why Myself and other Mastiff Breeders have stepped up to try and educate the public on the huge differences between our breed and the AmMa. Please do tell and share your experience with others. You may save another family a lot of heartache.

Catie Arney Kiokee mastiffs

Unfortunately, this owner expected a different demeanor and temperament with her "mastiff". She has experienced the ownership of a dog with an unpredictable temperament due to the mixing of two very different dog breeds bred originally for very different purposes.

Once again, I would like to point out--An American Mastiff is not a "MASTIFF". She was expecting an "improved mastiff" that drooled less, lived longer, and had less health problems--at least that the major claims made by the breeder. Instead she now owns a dog that may become a liability to her and her family.

TO the person looking to buy a"mastiff"-- Please go to a breeder that is knowledgeable in this breed and who works to breed the best possible dog. Look for breeders who health test their dogs before breeding and who consistently produce dogs that are long live with few to no health issues; who breed only dogs with exceptional stable temperaments and who can assist you in choosing the puppy with the correct personality for you and your family; and for a breeder who will be there for you when you have questions or need advice about your dog.

Don't fall into the trap of buying a "designer mutt"--that is the dog equivalent of this season's high fashion design. Many local dog shelters and animal resuces have mixed breeds who would love to be adopted. If you are not interested in a purebred--then please adopt from your local animal shelter.

Please look for a dog that fits your lifestyle and can be a part of your family for many years. Look for a dog that has the ability to grow and adapt with you and your family.

Remember- a dog is a lifetime commitment not a disposable possession.

Catie Arney, Kiokee Mastiffs kiokeemastiffs@embarqmail.com

2008 in Review

Looking back, I think I and my dogs have had a very good year. We have all been blessed with health, love of family, and the friendship of our close friends.

Zena celebrated her 12th birthday in May. Although "Mammaw" is a bit slower, doesn't see or hear as well as she did a few years ago, there is no dog more close to my heart than her. On clear days, she lies out on the southside of the house in the sun, watching the driveway, and the street. When I come home each day, she ambles up to me to give me a big kiss. I hope that we get to celebrate her 13th birthday in 2009. She still loves her dog biscuits and cookies--and yes, I bake her some fresh homemade biscuits every few days. Age has it's privileges.

Vidalia celebrated her 11th birth day in June. She is still a little bit ornery at times and can still give the neighborhood cats a run for their money. I think it puts a little bounce in her step when she makes them leave the yard. She, too, is slowing down. She likes her cookies, too; of course, she gets them. She often stays in the yard with the younger puppies, ever watchful and patient with them. Like her older sister, she enjoys a good nap in the sun.

Diesel joined our family this year, and he has become a fixture here. You would think the old man has been here his whole life. Diesel turn 5 in July, and we have almost completed his AKC championship--he just needs one more major to finish. Hopefully, we will get to add CH. to his name early next spring. We were lucky enough to have a litter sired by him this year--and his babies are beautiful. If all goes well, in 2009 and should have another litter.

Mona & Reba who are both 4 yrs old--my Vidalia and Tug girls-- matrons and divas in their own right. Reba surprised us all and got her first points--a 3-point major! Hopefully 2009 will be her year to finish her Championship--she loves to show. Sister, Mona hates to show--but her beautiful babies, Hope & Gracie--have become wonderful show dogs! Mona will remain her at home and we have a wonderful breeding planned for he in 2009.

My beautiful brindle girl, Boudi-Ch. Morrigan's Celtic Queen of Kiokee-she finished her championship in March of this year with back to back Majors. We have retired her from the Ring. Boudi loves everyone and everything--always happy and never a moments trouble. She was 4 years old in August.

Cooter, my big gorgeous goofy goober! He finished his AKC championship in November ( Ch. Kiokee Drunk in Publick, Too) after a very limited showing this year. We will continue to spot show him this next year as a special. I plan on taking him to the MCOA speciality this year. He just celebrated his 3rd birthday.

Sweet Sara Lee lives with Crystal Landreth of Pisgah Forest Mastiffs. We have a litter planned for her in 2009. Three of her puppies will be shown this coming year--Jimbo, Chance, and Winne--and all will be at the MCOA speciality!

My sweet lovely Gracie--Kiokee Lionhearted Savin' Grace--needs just 1 more point to finish her championship. This is a dog who sits and looks up at me with nothing but love in her eyes. She was with me when I had my wreck back in July, and escaped from the van to chase the ambulance that she saw me leave in. Thankfully, a NC state trooper chased her down and put her in his patrol car and followed my towed vehicle to the garage. The tow truck driver was kind enough to care for my dogs until my family got there to get them. We had lots of angels who watched over us that day. I ended up with 2 broke fingers--but all three of my girls (Reba, Gidget, and Gracie ) were fine.

I was so worried that the stress of the wreck would impair my girls--no chance! All three can't wait to load up and go! Since then, Gracie has really turned it on and became a wonderful show dog. She is a Momma's girl--but she does it to please me.

Gracie's sister, Hope--Ch. Kiokee Lionhearted Hope and A Prayer- finished her AKC Championship in just 4 weekends just 15 days after turning 1 year old. I can't wait to take these girls to the MCOA speciality this year!

Sweet little Gidget-Kiokee Against all Odds- my sweet little Boudi daughter. She turned 1 year old in July and although I affectionately refer to her as "Gidget the midget"--she is perfectly proportioned. She is maturing into a sweet loving girl so much like her dam. I hope to show and finish her Championship in 2009.

Then there is the two new boys on the block--Chance & Jimbo--my Sara Lee and Trojan boys. Chance was originally placed in a home and was returned back to me a few weeks ago.. His family couldn't keep him--so the name"chance" (yes, I changed it!). Brother Jimbo lives with his Co-owner Maggie over on the NC coast. Both are goofy sweet boys--who are going to make handsome show dogs. Both of these boys will make their debut in 2009--so watch for them!

There is one other family member, although he doesn't live here with me. It's Wesley--Kiokee StoneHouse Wes By Gosh Va. He is owned and loved by his co-breeders Karen and Micheal McBee in Fairmont W. Va. Wes just needs 3 single points to finish his AKC championship and hopefully we will do just that early next year. Wes has so many of his dam's traits--I see a great deal of Vidalia in him. But I also see the intelligence and sensibilities of his Sire, Willie, Ch. Stonehouse Steamboat Willie--who was loved and owned by Karen and Micheal. Wes holds a special place in my heart--it seems that I am the only person he will listen to and "let" show him-- and his grand-ma Catie loves him.

Karen & Micheal McBee also have Winnie--a Sara Lee and Trojan daughter--and she keeps their life exciting with her antics!

Mastiffs have a funny way of worming their way slowly into your heart until you wake up one morning and realize that you never want to be without one. Each and everyone of mine have their own personalities, likes and dislikes, and habits. I love each and everyone of them for just being their own special self.

I look forward to 2009. The MCOA Speciality will be here in NC and it looks to be a very special time for us. I look forward to attending the awards banquet to see Boudi's breeder--Jim Bennett of Morrigan Mastiffs-receive the Collar award and the Hall of Fame award for his beloved Morrigan--Boudi's Dam. Don't think for one minuter that I won't cry. It's a night that some of us will remember forever.

Also in 2009, my daughter Amiee and her husband JR will present us with a new grand-baby in May--about the same time as the MCOA Speciality! It looks as if we may get to have a boy in this family after all!

To our extended family that check in here ever so often--we wish you a very happy holiday and hope that the New Year finds you and yours happy and well. To each and all, We wish you the very best in 2009, and God Bless.

Catie, Mitch, Leila, and the Kiokee Gang

Letters about my American Mastiff entry

Since I posted my blog entries on Designer dogs and especially the American Mastiff (the "AmMA" as I refer to it); I have had some very interesting comments and e-mails. A few are from AmMa breeders/owners who are upset and righteously disagree with my comments. Some are from puppy buyers who are trying to learn the difference between the AmMa and the English Mastiffs, but I also receive feedback from owners of AmMa who are experiencing the very problems I have noted.



Below is just a couple of the e-mails I have received this past year. I have posted the original e-mail and then my reply. I have removed the e-mail addy of the e-mail author , their last name, and any contact information so as to protect their confidentiality.



I think these personal stories can speak for themselves. The first is a series of e-mails I received from an AmMa owner.



Subject: American Mastiff
Catie,

Can you tell me if the article you wrote about the American Mastiff was about the breeder Flying W Farms?

I am thinking it is
My Story goes as follows:

I had a wonderful English Mastiff who unfortunately passed away at the end of March this year. He dies of cancer at the precious age of 7 1/2 years. His was the sweetest and most lovable dog we have ever owned.

Fast forward - We wanted to get another puppy and fell into the "American Mastiff" trap that it was just like an English Mastiff but would live longer and no hip problems. The drool was not an issue for us.

So - we have a 5 1/2 month old puppy that has aggression issues and we have had a trainer/behaviorist work with us.


Still you can not go near the dog while he is eating or he will growl and snarl his teeth at you. There are other times when he got neutered and the drugs wore off - snarled and growled - and now for what seems to be no reason the same thing.

He did bite me when I put my hand in his food dish
We are at a loss of what to do -I had written Fredericka for suggestions but she has not been very helpful and makes it sound like it our fault for the dog's aggression


Any help you can give I would appreciate it - He has been micro chipped - but if he continues to be this mean we will have no choice but to surrender the dog

I would be happy to call you if you think you can provide any additional insight
We are so sorry we did not get another English Mastiff
Sincerely
Lori


I am so sorry. As much as I hate to admit it--it's not the first time I have heard it. Those of us connected with Mastiff rescue hear very similar stories all the time. The AmMa folks are now advertising that they will do their own "rescue", but there is no "need for it"-so contact them and give the dog up.


All the training in the world will never make this puppy into a dog that is 100% predictable. Ms. Wagner at one time kept her primary stud dog enclosed in an 8-ft high reinforced hog wire 10 x 10 pen and it would almost come through the pen after visitors. --that says all that needs to be said about that dog.


My advice, if you leave close enough to drive to the breeder's kennel--take it and GIVE the dog back to them. If this puppy is this aggressive at this young age--it's not going to get better--take my word. Save yourself the heart ache--get rid of it now. No amount of training or love will ever make this dog 100% predictable and safe.


No, it's not your fault. Certain types of aggression are inherited--ask your trainer. No 5 1/2 month old puppy should act the way you have described. If the breeder will not take it back--put it down. It will be the most humane thing to do. A dog with the temperament you just described is not a family pet and will be a life long liability for you and your family.


I hate to say it--consider this episode as a life lesson. An American Mastiff is just not the same as an English Mastiff. You can now personally testify why and how it's different. I occasionally get a very defensive letter from an AmMa puppy owner defending their choice of this "breed"; but I do get more letters like yours.


I will be most happy to put you in contact with some very good English Mastiff breeders in your area who can place a very good puppy with you. There is no substitute for a well-bred puppy and the support of an ethical breeder.


Please make your story known. As a breeder of English Mastiffs, I am often accused by AmMa owners/Breeders as a "snob" is just someone who makes up negative stories because I'm afraid I may miss selling a puppy. Not So. You are living proof that what myself and others are trying to make known is all so true.


Please contact me if I can be of assistance. Catie.

Here is her second response.

Sent: Monday, December 15, 2008 4:40:14 PM (GMT-0500) America/New_YorkSubject: Re: American Mastiff

Thank you for writing
Unfortunately I do not live anywhere near Flying Farms
We flew up from Central Florida
Would I just give him to the SPCA??
Lori

Since he has a history of aggression--no rescue organization will take him to re-home. When you turn him into SPCA shelter--they will immediately put him down due to his aggression and history of biting.

Please do the responsible thing--take him to your vet and put him down. If you can, stay with him and love him to the end. It's not the dog's fault--he can't help it. Let him leave this world knowing love.

It's painful and it hurts your heart--but please know it's the best for all concerned. As a pet owner, it will be the hardest thing you have ever done.

Be sure you contact his breeder and notify them the dog has been put down and why. Please share your story with others--you may help prevent this same heart ache for someone else. Go to mastiffs.org and the mastiff world forum and tell your story. You can met a few others who can relate to your loss and pain.
I am so sorry. Catie

Our third correspondance;

Sent: Saturday, December 20, 2008 2:24 PM Subject: Re: American Mastiff

I did contact Fredericka and she wanted me to ship at my expense the dog back to her and not refund me anything. She also said she would use a shock collar to straigthen out the dog so he could be given to someone else. She let me know under the contract I could not give him to the SPCA etc.

This dog is not fit for any anyone - believe me he just becomes more aggressive and more unpredictable.

On Mon, Dec 15, 2008 at 3:50 PM, <kiokeemastiffs@embarqmail.com> wrote:

So all that is left is to do the most humane thing for the dog—put the dog down. If you send it back to FW she will just place it or sell it to some other unsuspecting person. Please don’t pass the problem on to someone else.

About 2 years ago, I went and oicked up for mastiff rescue a starved adult intact male mastiff that had been found wandering. The dog could barely walk. When I picked him up he was sweet and easy to work with.

I spent close to 3 months nursing him back to health. Once he got comfortable here in his surroundings—his true personality came out—the dam dog came after me 3 times in the space of 2 days. He also went after my husband and my daughter. If you reached for his collar he would lunge at you. I had to call animal control to come with catch loops to assist me in removing him from my property—he was put down immediately.

The shape of his muzzle, his eye color, and his behaviors lead me to believe his was an American Mastiff—In over 25 years of rescue I have never had a Mastiff turn on me –even the ones that have been abused. My best guess is that his owner tried to starve him to death—and when that didn’t work-they took him out in the country and dumped him to die..

I saved this dog from death—and he would have ripped out my throat. That’s why I have absolutely no reserves in telling you to put this dog down now. The older he gets and the bigger he gets—the harder it is going to be to control him.

Don’t even think about it twice. If you don’t want to take him into your vet--Take him to your county animal control—tell the officers he is aggressive and has bitten you—ask them to put him down immediately. Catie

Once again, the AmMa founding breeder refuses to take responsibility for a dog she has bred. Of course, she does want it turned over to the SPCA--they would contact her and they also keep records of breeders who produce aggressive dogs. IMO-the ethical move would have been to ask the owner to ship the dog back to her and she pay the shipping expense.

Of course she is not going to refund the $1800.00 this couple spent. Yet, she will turn around and "place" (sell?) this dog again after traing it with a shock collar. Sounds like she has used this method before.

I wonder if she would have accepted it back and paid for the shipping if it was intact? Where is the action on the part of this breeder to back up her claim "we rescue the dogs we breed"? She knows it's her dog--yet has not taken any actions on HER part to get the dog back. Sure, she is willing to take the dog back, IF the current owner foots all the expense of sending the dog back.

This is not my defination of a breeder taking responsibility for the dogs they have bred. That dog did not ask to be brought into this world. As it's breeder, she alone is responsibile for it's existance.

Of Course, It's not just English Mastiffs that are affected by AmMAs.

Cathy: I applaud you for the statements made on your blog ... as a lover/owner of Anatolians for more than 20 years, I can completely relate to your frustration towards folks who can never leave a good thing alone. We each have breeds that have been developed for a specific purpose and have been used for that purpose for thousands of years. Then, along comes some idiot who sees a chance to capitalize on a merging of the two breeds ... my biggest fear is that, in the long run, this will be the downfall of both our breeds as more and more wind up in rescue or shelters. Keep up the good work and God Bless ....


Sandra

Well, Thank you. I tried to present facts and to be unbiased--but you know, it's hard.

I see both our breeds being defamed and degraded by individuals who simply are opting to seize an opportunity to make money. I'm sure a few are vain enough to think they are in the fore front of developing a "new" breed and consider themselves pioneers.

Both of our breeds have been developed over centuries to meet a specific need and have strong characteristic instincts. You yourself have seen what can happen when the wrong person gets one of these designer dogs. Not only do we have to pick up the slack and deal with the rescue problem, we also get stuck taking responsibility for any negative press.

I think both of our breed clubs need to address and develop a united front to educate the general public about our breeds and this "designer" breed. If we wait any longer, it could be disastrous for all concerned. Catie



Here is a letter from a person looking for information on differences between The EM and the AmMA.



Hi there - I read your article on American Mastiffs, which we were considering. Can you refer us to any reputable breeders of English Mastiffs in the Midwest. We live just outside of Chicago. By the way, does the breed really drool that much?

Thanks for any info and your time, Colleen

LOL! I do hear that question a lot! The EM does not droll all the time. As a rule, the shorter and more shoved yup nose/face you have the more they drool. Most Mastiffs only drool when they eat, drink water, or see you eat something they think will taste good--and that will be everything you eat!

Feed and water them outside and it helps. Just place a few hand towels around your home where you can reach them--and teach your dog to come to you and get his face wiped after he eats and drinks. After a while, you really don't notice it.

By the way, AMs can drool just as much as Mastiffs--esp. since they are 7/8 EM to begin! The only one who don't drool have snippy muzzles ( longer, pointed noses)--and that is just not the "Mastiff" type head which is part of their charm. Do you think that by breeding in 1/8th of a different breed is going to stop drooling? It Just ain't so.

You have several very good breeders in your area--go the the MCOA web site--they have a breeder referral. The Devine Farm site has a litter listing from parents who are health tested--a great place to begin your search.

Please read about our breed--go and visit a breeder's home and meet some mastiffs. Make sure this is the breed for you--don't buy on impulse. Buying the first puppy you find could be a mistake.

I have owned Mastiffs since 1984 and I can't imagine my life or home with out one. Paint your walls with semi-gloss enamel paint or wallpaper--the slingers wipe off easier! LOL! Catie Arney Kiokee Mastiffs Hickory NC

I do encourage any potential dog owner to research carefully into any breed that you may be considering of buying. Don't just get a dog because it's the ladest fad. Pick a dog that fits your lifestyle and family. A dog should be a commitment--not an impulse buy. If you can't give a dog a "forever home," then please don't get one. Get a Chia Pet instead.

Any comments or questions can be forwarded to kiokeemastiffs@embarqmail.com.

Designer dogs Vs. Purebred Dogs

Unfortunately, it seems that every week brings out someone else who has decided to "create" a "New Breed" of dog by taking pure breed dogs and cross breeding them. These individuals consider themselves to be in the fore front of the "new wave" of dog ownership. In fact, they have just come up with a new way to market mutts to the general public.

Often these individuals state that these dogs have "hybrid vigor" and are less prone to develop genetic diseases of their pure breed parents. In fact, these breeds may be more prone to genetic disorders; especially if the parents were not health tested! One does not decrease genetic problems in a dog by crossing two different breeds together. You may actually increase the number of genetic disorders a dog can carry or exhibit especially if your parent dogs have never been tested!. If you want a cross-bred dog--go to your local animal shelter and adopt one! There are always many well-deserving mixed breed dogs there that need homes.

Designer dogs have been created to meet a buyer's need in the pet market. Often advertised as being improved due to such abilities as: "Non-shedding", "hypo-allergic", "Dry-Mouth", etc.
All great selling points to the general public who think they are buying a dog to meet their needs based on these claims, but but in fact, these claims are most fabrications.


We now can find several different designer breeds that are crossed with Poodles supposedly so that these breed as can be "hypo-allergic" since by crossing in the Poodle the resulting breed become "hypo=allergic". Not so. You do not automatically pass on any trait just by adding a certain dog to another breed.

Guide Dog for the Blind in Australia attempted to use Labordoodles and Goldendoodles in a breeding program to develop a "hypo-allergic" guide dog for over 25 years and was UNABLE to use either of the breeds because of the instability of breed characteristics and lack of ability to breed true. The entire program was considered a gross failure and dissolved several years ago.

No dog is "non-shedding"--ALL dogs shed. Long coated dogs shed less--they retain their long outer coat all year, yet they do shed their undercoat once maybe twice a year. Just buy a long coated dog and never brush it--it will mat if you do not comb out the undercoat which the dog SHEDS. So, yes, ALL dog shed hair --it is just that some (short hair dogs) shed more that others (long hair dogs).

Then there is the Designer breeder who advertises a "dry-mouth Mastiff". Yes, some of their dogs have smaller heads and less flews so they will drool less, but most drool just as much as the original dogs. This designer breed is 7/8 English Mastiff--do you really think 1/8 is going to make a dog drool less?

Below is a message written by a fellow Mastiff Breeder Jann Lanz of GoldLeaf Mastiffs. Read what she has to say on this subject.

DON'T BE FOOLED BY "DESIGNER DOGS"

It is becoming more common to see advertisements from people breeding "Designer Dogs". Please don't fall into the trap of paying a high price for these animals. They are nothing more than a cross-breed and are marketed to make you think that you're getting the best qualities from two separate breeds that have been mixed together. Breeders of pure bred dogs continuously work to preserve the pure bred dog and rarely make any money. These "designer dog" breeders are breeding for money and are hoping to cash in on what they hope is a niche market and pry on uneducated puppy buyers.

These so-called breeders are not taking the genetic failings of separate breeds into consideration prior to pairing their chosen breeds. This is what they neglect to tell you!! It takes a responsible dog breeder years to establish a strong and healthy line of animals and by mixing these dogs, there is no telling what kind of genetic and temperament faults will crop up. Mixing dogs, especially LARGE BREED DOGS, is a dangerous endeavor when it comes to temperament. Be safe! Never purchase a mixed breed animal, especially a large breed dog. These breeders have no idea what the future holds for these animals. They do not do health testing like a responsible breeder of pure bred dogs would!! Don't be their guinea pig and pay the price when your animal develops diseases, temperament problems, and/or a short life span. Also, your animal will NEVER be eligible for American Kennel Club Registration.

The majority of the time these designer breeders will use low quality breeding stock they acquire from the lowest price source. The pure bred dog they use in their breeding program, which may have serious health and/or genetic faults, are then cross bred with different breeds with bad traits related to that breed. If you prefer a mixed breed dog, please contact your local animal rescue organization or humane societies. These animals are in need of loving homes and are spayed/neutered and are up to date on their vaccinations. They are also a fraction of the cost vs. what you would pay for a "designer dog".

Thank you for reading this important information. It has been developed to help prevent you and your family from many problems. Owning a dog is a big responsibility. If you are going to purchase a dog, please work with a well known, responsible breeder of AKC pure bred dogs or your local animal shelter.

Thank you. Jann Lanz, Goldleaf Mastiffs timber@pacific.net

Well said, Jann. Thank you for speaking up.

Any comments or remarks concerning my opinion and thoughts maybe directed to me at kiokeemastiffs@embarqmail.com.